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UNDERSTATED elegance is what The Angel is all about - from the surroundings in which you eat to the classic combinations of food on your plate.

When we arrived at the hotel, the staff were all apologies as a flood had put the restaurant out of action (the story involved a guest running a bath and falling asleep), but fears of having to try out the local kebab shop were immediately put out of our minds.

One of the hotel's elegant function rooms had been transformed to accommodate diners, providing a more than adequate replacement.

My companion chose a starter of whole king prawns, cooked to perfection, while my seared squid served with chilli and coriander had just the right amount of bite.

The lamb was, I was told, cooked beautifully, leaving it moist and succulent. My crayfish risotto was a triumph - an excellent balance of delicate crayfish, rice and parmesan cheese, served with a side-salad.

Cracking through the caramelised crust of a creme brulee is one of life's great pleasures, particularly when what is found beneath is smooth, finely infused with vanilla and not overly- sweetened.

My companion's blueberry tart was just as tasty and just as well-received.

Service was excellent and the presentation of the food was a joy - making The Angel an excellent option for a special occasion.

The total cost for the two meals was £51.60, and they were accompanied by a crisp semillion chardonnay at £12.30 a bottle.

12:22pm Friday 16th May 2008

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